MShack

299 Atlantic Blvd, 32233
$

There is a meal commonly found throughout America that is, considered by many, a favorite past time.  A dish that can be pushed to the extremes and cost as much as $60, a veritable masterpiece with foie gras, black truffles, and Australian Waygu beef.  But the simplest ones take form as properly cooked meat on bread that used to sell for as little $0.05.  We are talking about the burger.  The hamburger, cheeseburger, sliders, minis, unnecessarily over sized party burgers.  We have seen them presented gloriously with a side of french fries or onion rings, speedily produced in the fast food chains, and destroyed by the inexperienced on an improperly prepared grill.  And because of all the Big Macs and Whoppers they have began to lose their allure.  Thankfully Five Guys, Smash Burger, and In-N-Out Burger have started a revival in this arena.  And as lovely as these places are, sadly, they are still corporate, non-local vendors.

Then MShack arrives on the shores of Jacksonville.  Like white sails on the horizon, the Medure brothers,  have brought the masterpiece known as burgers.  Not just meat on a bun with a little bit of ketchup, masterpieces designed by David and Matthew Medure.  The chef brothers who are responsible for bringing us Restaurant Medure and Matthew's have brought us a burger joint Jacksonville can be proud to have in its city, fusing the old fashioned burger joint with style and fresh ingredients. MShack burgers are made with all natural, hormone-free Black Angus beef ground fresh daily. Juicy, all beef hot dogs, hand-cut fries, mouth-watering milk shakes and more help complete their unique menu.  My friend Callie told me I needed to check it out and I had waited long enough.  She convinced me the drive from Riverside to Atlantic Beach was worth the trip.  I could only hope it was all true.

Having a beach locale, the feel of the restaurant follows suit.   Large windows that open at the front to give access to a small patio and allow a gently sea breeze in to remind you that you are a mere seconds away from the sand.  A small bar where the offer a few local brews and long community table running down the middle of the room all bring focus to the large chalkboard upon which they hand write the menu.  The concept was, and is, to provide a great burger that is affordable.  The basics all ring up under $5.  And just like any good restaurant, you get to watch all your food made in the open kitchen.

The Sunrise Burger, bacon, farm egg, American cheese, shack sauce, $5.50.
Anybody who has truly enjoyed a good burger knows that one of the best ways to improve upon it is by frying an egg and throwing it on top.  And that is the angle this burger takes.  The burger is ground in house, if you get there early enough you can actually watch them grind it through a window in the rear of the kitchen.  The bacon is not cooked until you order it and the Shack sauce is made in the style of Louis Dressing, a flavor that is familiar to most and pairs well with almost anything you would like to put it on.  It all comes on a toasted Martin's potato roll, one that is made specifically for MShack.

Italian Sausage, sauteed mushrooms, peppers and onions, melted provolone, $5.95.
This sandwich is not what you may expect, it is not a tube of meat shoved into a hoagie and topped with soggy vegetables.  It is a fresh ground, completely made in house Italian style sausage formed into a burger style patty and cooked fresh, just like all the other burgers at the joint.  Then top with veggies and cheese and put it all on a fresh ciabatta roll made by local bakers, Village Bread.  Old fashioned meets new school, and I have nothing to complain about.

Sweet Potato Tots, $1.95.
Almost simple and straight forward.  I know, they are just tater tots made out of sweet potato, right?  Not at MShack.  I never got confirmation, but I am almost positive, and Callie agrees, that they are not a frozen, bought out product.  To many irregular sizes and in no way a manufactured look to speak of, these awesome little nuggets had to be made in house.  Then to finish it off, a special seasoning, salt, sweet, a little spice and a hint of heat, a perfect pairing for the golden sweet potatoes.  Such a perfect pairing, we did not need anything to dip them in.

Queso Cheddar Fries, $2.95.
Nothing fancy, just potatoes, cut, blanched, and fried, then topped with a white cheddar chile sauce.  The fries stay crisp, are well seasoned.  The sauce, Oh!, the sauce is a dream of white velvet with just enough heat to keep the fries from becoming monotonous and keep you happy.

There is one spot I feel a place like Five Guys falls flat and that is not offering shakes.  I cannot blame them for not attacking it, creating a great shake is not an easy task.  And it allows them to focus on creating create burgers and fries and not worry about anything else.  However, at MShack the Medure brothers took on the challenge and excelled greatly.

Pecan Pie Shake, $5.25
I saw this and had to try it.  I easily saw the way for them to incorporate pecans, that one is a no brainer.  Even incorporating the texture and flavor of a pie crust can be done with a little effort.  The tricky part, the one that made me curious enough to have to order this shake, was incorporating that unique and ubiquitous flavor of the syrup style custard that makes a pecan pie a pecan pie.  Simply put. . .Nailed it.

Peanut Butter Shake, $4.50.
Blue Bell Ice Cream and Skippy Peanut Butter come together in a luxuriously thick emulsion of dairy and legume.  If it had strawberries in it, it would take you back to tour childhood days of PB&Js with a cold glass of milk.

So it turns out a drive to the beach was worth it.  Most of the time I can see myself driving out to the beaches just to get one of these burgers instead of going to Five Guys.  The good news, we will not have to be doing that by the end of summer. 

The Medure brothers have decided to open one up in San Marco at their former Take Away Gourmet location, and I have nothing but thanks for this decision.  With the talent that drives the restaurant and the concept behind the menu it can be successful anywhere they decide to set up.  They have the basics that will be mainstays on the menu, burger, cheeseburger, M Burger, shakes, and sides, but the others, such as Sunrise Burger or Fish Sandwich, are rotatable and can form the menu around the location it is at and the clientele they serve.  I feel that with this concept, MShack will be around for a while, which I could not be happier about.  Which gives plenty of time to try the The Medurable .

22nd Annual Jacksonville FOODFIGHT

Today I am bringing you a post that does not have anything to do with a recent trip to a local restaurant but with the chefs involved in making these local hot spots happen.  

The 22nd Annual Jacksonville FOODFIGHT will be held at the EverBank Field East Touchdown Club on Thursday, June 7, 2012. The event will feature more than 60 local restaurants, beverage distributors and caterers engaging in a friendly competition showcasing their signature dishes. In addition to the fabulous food and spirits, live entertainment will be provided by the local band Split Tone.
More than 1,200 guests are expected to attend the event and enjoy the samplings provided by the best in the industry. Last year, nearly $100,000 was raised at the event - a record total - with all proceeds benefiting Second Harvest North Florida.  Their mission is to distribute food and grocery products to hungry people and to educate the public about the causes and possible solutions to problems of domestic hunger.  Opening their doors in 1979, the Lutheran Social Services food program began as the Nourishment Network, but became the food bank in 1981 as its services expanded. In 1984, the food bank became a certified member of the national organization, America’s Second Harvest, which changed its name to Feeding America in 2008. The mission of Second Harvest North Florida is to feed hungry people by soliciting and judiciously distributing food and grocery products and to educate the public about the nature of and solutions to the problems of hunger.

This benefit is near and dear to me, as a chef with the Jaguars I have been able to assist by donating product to Second Harvest over the years and have participated in this event for the last few years professionally.  If there is anyway you can make it, I would love to see you out there.

I am sure a lot of you are now asking, "How do I get in?"  You could easily support the cause by purchasing a ticket.  But I have a solution for those of you who are itching to get in and cannot necessarily afford a ticket or simply prefer to spend your tightly knit budget in other ways.  I will be raffling off two tickets to those who help support this blog.  All you have to do is "Like" the Second Harvest of North Florida page, then "Share" this page on Facebook tagging me and Second Harvest and you have earned yourself an entry.  For my Twitter friendly readers "Share" this page on Twitter and tag me, @Jag_Chef and @JaxFOODFIGHT in the post and you have earned yourself another entry, up to four entries a day.   To ensure your efforts are not overlooked, be sure to post a comment here informing me of your efforts. The more you share, the more entries you get, the better chance you have at winning the tickets.

Brick Restaurant

3585 Saint Johns Avenue, 32205
$$-$$$

The Avondale area has been loved by many for the classic styling of all the historic buildings located there.  Brick Restaurant gathers it's name from the building it was placed in, an all brick exterior.  The front patio sits directly adjacent to the sidewalk, but there is not much foot traffic causing congestion.  Indoors is a huge dining room with high open ceilings, large pieces of art hanging over the high back booths lining the walls.


We sit down to begin to browse the menu that is said to be Modern American and notice the huge wine list.  Reds, whites, blends, and sparkling with some very respectable names included.  Beers on the other hand were very much lacking, Stella Artois and Bold City Breweries Killer Whale Cream Ale were all they had on tap and 18 bottled, I give kudos on the majority being craft beers, but to only dispense one of the cities local brews is a bit of a let down.


Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, $14
An American classic on the eastern seaboard, this was bound to be a nice starter.  Once the plate arrived it left me feeling a little disappointed.  Expecting a few smaller cakes or a nicely sized large one, all that arrived was a single crab cake, served with a small chopped salad and Louis dressing as an accompaniment..  The crab cake was light and not bogged down by excessive filler.  Though at $14 for a single crab cake it was a little on the small side. Though I guess part of that cost came from the half lemon served with my 3-4 oz of crab cake.

The Brick "Wedge", $6 ($5 to accompany entree)
I was initially excited to try this salad, naming it after the restaurant it is being served in promises big tastes, and hopefully a modernization of this classic as well.  Alas, the salad was severely lacking.  A sixth cut of  a head of iceberg, 3 uncut grape tomatoes, and a very thin very lacking blue cheese dressing without a lot of blue cheese in it.  For a dish that would be considered a flagship item bearing the name of the establishment, this dish was a huge flop.

Bacon Burger, $11
A very traditional straight forward burger, nothing fancy, but done well.  Served medium-rare, just as ordered on a toasted bun with iceberg lettuce, red onion, and pickle chips.  Served with a choice of couscous, french fries, coleslaw or a baked potato and with mayonnaise, ketchup and yellow mustard without having to make the request.

Potato Crusted Grouper, creamed spinach, $23
I saw this on the menu and I began to dream of experiencing another person's take on Daniel Boulud's classic potato crusted fish from Le Cirque.  The dish arrives to be nothing more than under seasoned mashed potatoes smeared on top of a thin piece of grouper and simply baked.  Not as exciting as a $23 dish should be.  The creamed spinach was on the plate as a sauce for the fish but did not bring any more excitement.  The dish is served with the same choice of sides as all the others: fries, coleslaw, couscous, sweet potato fries or baked potato.  There was some brightness to the dish, the fish was cooked very well and I got the other half of my lemon from the starter with my entree.

Key Lime Pie, $7
A very classic and straight forward dessert perfect for the warm months in Florida.  Not sure if these are made in house or locally but it was a nice piece of pie.  A light graham cracker crust with what seemed to be a Key Lime curd filling and a nice dollop of fresh whipped cream on the side.

Apple Walnut Bread Pudding, $7
Traditional bread pudding that almost pushes the use of cinnamon.  Pushes it far enough that I think if it were made with anything other than apples it would be too much.  You can add non-homemade ice cream for $2.  And it might be something to consider because all you get with the bread pudding is a little caramel sauce on the plate.  Nothing to help break up the monotony of a custard soaked bread with apples and walnuts.

In an area of town where you have authentic Middle Eastern at The Casbah fare and damn good BBQ at the newer Mojo No. 4 within walking distance and many more outstanding eateries within a short bike or car ride, Brick is just not up to par with competitive cost and quality of food.  As well they advertise a Modern American menu that just serves classic dishes ranging from the 1970's through the 1990's without out as much as an updated plating technique.  Though from the sounds of the people I have talked to about Brick, the average patron goes to enjoy a glass of wine and a sandwich or burger, which do happen to be the better deals on the menu.

Pele's Wood Fire

2665 Park Street, 32204
$$$

This may seem like a bad idea, but it is actually what has pushed me to start a blog for local eats.  I am certain posting a negative review about a brand new place that is being met with lots of love from locals may not put me into good graces with people, but with the experience my friend and I had, the story needed to be told.

January 4, 2012, was day 4 of their soft opening, so being a little rough around the edges was understandable, and we took our meal with this in mind.  The course of dinner follows.


A good friend of mine, Dave S, decided to go check out the new place at the corner of Post and King in Riverside hoping for a night of good times and great food.  We walk in to a beautifully renovated pharmacy with high back booths, dark wood, high tops, what was easily a 35' bar, and 2 "Chef's Bars" that over looked the stone faced wood fire ovens and the open kitchen behind.  High exposed ceilings opened the restaurant a lot, but the deep reds and woods kept it toned down.  The lighting seemed to be at a perfect level to not over brighten a room or darken your dining companions face.  Very clean.  Very sleek.  Simply put.  A beautiful new place.

We decide to dine at the Chef's Bar and watch food roll out as we glanced over the menus.  The beer list was extensive, being composed of tons of local and non-local micro brew beers, including Intuition and Bold City brews.  Most beers were kept nicely priced between 5 and 6 dollars with a couple ranging into the 20 dollar range.  The downside was our server was not very knowledgeable about a few of the beers that we believed they should have known a little more about.  Not knowing about Intuition's People's Pale Ale seemed a little lazy considering it is the most common and popular of the local breweries tonics.  Prompt bread and water service was nice, but it was served with an olive oil, that, as Dave put, "tasted as if they put liquid smoke in it" giving it a very off putting taste and they decided to use dried herbs to go with their fresh made bread.  Not very tantalizing.  After ordering a round of libations we moved on to the food.

The menu looks simple, yet edgy enough to make a strong push in Jacksonville.  The menu currently consists of 5 starters, 4 salads, 6 pastas, 6 pizzas, 6 mains, and 4 desserts.  Some extremely traditional, others more of a haute style cuisine.  None the less, many piqued our interest.

We decided to begin with the Oven Fired Limoncello Wings, with Parmesan, chile, and olive oil, $9.   The starter arrives, six wings with the slightest bit of char from the wood fire oven, garnished with celery heart leaves.  We dig in expecting a flavor explosion and the dish immediately falls flat on our palate.  These perfectly cooked wings have been under seasoned and wrongfully descripted.  Instead of the wings being instilled with the flavor of Limoncello, Parmesan, and chiles, it is just a sprinkling of the latter as a further garnish.  Worst of all, the wings lacked one of the most crucial ingredients.  Salt.

So we decide to move on to the pasta course.  Taleggio Ravioli with Bolognese, spinach, $14.  6 handmade raviolis on a rectangle plate covered with bolognese and a patch of sauteed spinach at one end.  First bite reveals nothing but tough, thick pasta.  Second bite reveals a washed out bolognese with no body.  Third bite makes us wonder if Taleggio is even in the raviolis.  We decide to dissect one for the filling, and alas, the creamy pungent cheese reveals itself.  Finally, we eat the spinach, and we discovered where all the salt in the kitchen goes.

After finishing our second course, the front of house manager, who is running the pizza oven window, looks over and asks us how we are doing.  After voicing several concerns he gets the Sous Chef to come talk to us, though at first he seemed reluctant to entertain the request.  After voicing our concerns, he decides to try and rectify the mistakes by sending us 2 desserts on the house.

Tiramisu.  In a word.  Perfect.  Traditional, light, airy, perfectly soaked lady fingers and the right amount of cocoa dusting so you didn't choke when taking a bite.  Truly the high point of the night.  But that is not where we finished.

White Chocolate Cheesecake with Espresso Pot de Creme.  Presentation for this dessert got high marks, I just wish we could say the same about the rest of the plate.  The cheesecake was so dense that you literally had to force the spoon through it so you could take a bite.  And once you took the bite, the words white chocolate never came to mind.  The Espresso Pot de Creme was a perfect consistency, but the high tones of the espresso left you wondering if chocolate was actually used to make it.  This accompanment was so strong that it didn't let you reconsider the cheescake because it masked all other flavors.

Considering the fact that it was their 4th day of soft openings, I understand that there will be hitches.  But you must not trust yourself when you are doing 5 weeks of soft openings.  And you have a Sous Chef who sells food to guests that he agreed was sub par.  And the same chef decides to try and rectify said foul ups by giving you food that was made by someone completely different(they list the Pastry Chef on the Menu).  Reasoning they used behind some of their high pricing was they locally source their product using places such as Black Hog Farm, but they do not advertise it at all.  This is something they should be proud of and is a huge push in the restaurant communities these days.

All in all, the service was nice with prompt but not overbearing attention from the servers, who also provided proper plate placement and service.  The chefs did make time to stop by our table when requested, whether they felt we were worthwhile or not.  And it is a new local place with tons, excuse me, TONS of potential.  I look forward to trying this place out again after they get the oppurtunity to work the kinks out.  And I wish them the best in putting the final nail in the coffin of that hideous Burger King less than a block away.  I just hope they are not digging their own grave with some of the decisions they are currently making.

Hello.

I, Jarrod, have decided to begin blogging about the places to eat in and around Jacksonville, FL.  Being a chef and a localvore of all things, not just food, it seemed a good way to get my opinion out there and perhaps help those that deserve it.  So to all friends and family who have decided to stop and and all others directed here by them, I thank you in advance for your support.